The pilgrim Felix Fabri, from the end of the fifteenth century, described the prayers conducted by pilgrims on the banks of the river, dipped in the waters dressed in special clothing brought particularly for this purpose. When the emperor Constantius became ill, he asked to bath in the Jordan. After the site became sacred, traditions developed that were associated with the holy eatures of the water and its curative properties. One piece of evidence for this comes from Gregory of Tour, who visited the site in the sixth century CE. Byzantine and Medieval authors attributed the waters of the Jordan river a special power to heal lepers who bathed in them, especially at the spot where Jesus was baptized. Qasr al-Yahud, situated on the west bank of the Jordan River, 5 miles north of the Dead Sea and east of Jericho, features the Monastery of Saint John the Baptist, believed to be the traditional site of the Baptism of Jesus1 and has a centuries-long tradition of ‘washing of the lepers’. The three gowns, the supportive underwear and smocks are under reconstruction to better understand the tailoring methods used, how the single garments worked individually and as layers (supportive undergarment – smock – gown), and contribute to the study of female apparel of the second half of the 15th century. The bra allows for looser tailoring of the gown, which accentuates two separate breasts, as opposed to supportive kirtles which result in a monobosom (one curving mound). The aim of this research is to draw a correlation between supportive undergarments and the tailoring of the gowns worn over them. With the transition to Italian style garments at the beginning of the 16th century, these bias techniques of women’s tailoring were no longer needed, and thus were lost, with bias-cut hose and stockings being the only remnant of this tailoring revolution. While this design augmented the shape of the breasts, it provided no support, and thus separate supportive garments were worn under the gown to support, shape and lift the breast. In the creation of the fashionable 15th century gowns with under-bust pleating, the tailors used the bias collapse and drape of the fabrics to provide the shaping around the individual breasts, instead of using straight grain panels and gores, as is seen in the Greenland finds – a dramatic revolution in tailoring techniques. The Lengberg lining fragments demonstrate that 15th century tailors had a highly-advanced understanding of the bias properties of fabrics, far beyond anything expected, and not to be duplicated in fashion until the 1930s.
These linen linings are most noteworthy for the techniques applied to their tailoring. There were also fragments of linen linings for three gowns: two for a small girl (one of blue wool and one of red silk) and one blue woollen example for an adult woman. Before the finds at Lengberg Castle, no physical evidence of supportive undergarments, so-called ‘breast bags’, had been discovered, although garments of this type were mentioned in several written sources of the time. Made from authentic materials, often replicated from originals of the era, we have brought the frontier back.Among the textile fragments discovered at Lengberg Castle in East-Tyrol, Austria, were a few almost completely preserved pieces of garments such as several nearly complete linen bras and fragments of possibly skirted bodices.
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Whether you side with the romance of it all or the wild side often portrayed in books, TV and film, we’ve got something interesting that captures the spirit of the American Frontier. We carry tomahawks, Bowie knives, frontier décor, powder horns and so much more.
The frontier transformed Americans and inspired our offerings. The Hatfields and McCoys, Billy the Kidd, Butch Cassidy the James Gang all seem romantic now. We see an interesting mix of the Alamo, the Lone Ranger, Gary Cooper, Clint Eastwood, John Wayne, Texas Rangers, Jim Bowie, cattle rustlers, gamblers, gun fighters and outlaws. The reality was it wasn't always that wild- farming, mining, railroads, lumber and other industries were growing and were the driving forces of the day. Popular culture and the entertainment industry are focused on the Western US in the second half of the 19th century, post Civil War, a period sometimes called the Old West or the Wild West. The American Frontier is the Westward expansion of the colonies in the early 17th century.
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